Here’s the tweaked design for my International Temari Appreciation Day ball:

the blue side

I made a few tweaks to the design: added a red band around the equator before I started the kiku stitching, used the rayon thread twisted for the entire design, tightened up the wrap on the ball (more about that later), changed the marking thread to red, and adjusted the number of rows to bring the two sets of points closer together.

I miss the strong yellow of the last ball but I think this one suits my picture of ‘many flying flags’ better.

About the wrapping… when I made all of my temari with socks in the core they tended to be wrapped fairly firmly. When I shifted to using rice hulls I kindof liked getting them a little more squishy. There is a problem with that though. When you are stitching a design that has a strong pressure in a single direction on the ball (N/S) in this case, it will compress the ball in that direction. With a squishier ball the difference can be quite pronounced as you work, enough that the earlier stitching become looser as the design progresses and there is a measurable difference in circumference around the equator as opposed to around the poles. The solution is pretty simple, when you are going to stitch a one direction design that might compress the ball, wrap your ball firmer.

You can still use a moderate tension on the yard wrap for the core but tighten up a bit when you get to the thread so that the final ball does not squish easily in your hand. Also, when you are stitching, be sure to not pull your stitches too tightly, especially the later ones.

Here’s a few more views of the design:

the green side

Now I have no clue what I will stitch for the blog next. I think I will take a break from design work and stitch something out of a book. Any suggestions?

The temari for this week is one that I have designed and stitched for the International Temari Appreciation Day logo. The requirements are that it must be an S16 division and use kiku herringbone (uwagake chidori) stitching.

I decided that I would use the ElMolina rayon thread from Presencia again. I wanted to try it out with uwagake stitching and I had the right colors. I was thinking of the wonderful pages in our atlas that show all of the flags for various countries. The majority of them seem to use clear primary colors with white. So I opted to do a white ball and use yellow, green and blue with red as an accent color.

I also wanted something different than a 16 point kiku so I used two 8 point uwagake paths, reversed from each other. One has the top points starting about 3/8″ from the N pole with the bottom points halfway between the equator and the S pole. Then I turned the ball over to work another path with the top points about 3/8″ from the S pole and bottom points halfway between the equator and the N pole.

Since the paths cross each other at the equator, you get large diamond shapes around the ball. The bottom points coming up in between the top points creates an interesting spikey negative space. To keep the top points nicely spaced I pinned a 3/4 inch button to the pole when I stitched the first row.

Some more views:

I am not sure if I will post this particular ball on the Flick’r site for the contest yet. The contest is open until the end of the month so I may see if I can get time to restitch it. I can see several different things I could do to improve both the quality of the stitching and the overall design. If this week is not too hectic I’ll work on that and post the ball to the Flick’r group next week.

You might remember this temari from my indecision post earlier. Thanks to comments and DH’s two cents I decided not to rip.

I added a woven obi, just over two and under two. The weaving adds a cool tactile texture as well as a visual one. In fact this ball is pretty fun to hold in your hands because of the Artic Rays fuzzy thread that I added in the last row of the kiku and the weaving. It is an interesting feel.

As I did the weaving I tried to spread out the spindle threads a bit so that the individual spindles are not so distinct. It would have worked a bit better if my spacing was more consistent. Gotta watch that.

As part of my indecision about ripping out the last temari, I decided to make another one with the same technique but on a smaller marking so it would not be so crowded. Here it is:

The design is from the Japanese book Cosmo 7 (pg19). Like the blue one, I did the kiku as a braided kiku. I made a few other small changes too. I am really happy with how it came out. I still get four stash credits for it, even with perle cotton only counting half. That’s because designs that use doubled thread to stitch really gobble up thread.

I can’t say that I like the spacing all that much better than the blue one. It is definitely less crowded but that just makes it different, not necessarily better. DH chimed in on the indecision (as well as several of you who commented) so I decided not to rip out the blue one. I’ve designed a new obi that you’ll be seeing in a few days.

I’m still working on 42 center thoughts but this post was sitting there just waiting for the pictures so I did them when I got started marking balls this weekend.  Sorry this post is so long. I wanted to be sure to have enough pictures for those who are new to temari to see the details.

It all starts here: pins, marking thread, paper strip, scissors, mari, needles

All temari markings start with a simple division.  So it would make sense to be able to do one really well.  If you are already an experienced temari maker you might find that there are still a few tricks to getting a really nice simple division.  (If I leave off one of your favorites, please tell me in the comments.)  Since simples are the starting place for combination divisions you’ll find that taking your time in this step can really pay off later.  I’ve marked the tips that are not usually included in other Simple Division instructions with a ** so if you are experienced with Simple Divisions you can just check those parts out (Step 3 and 4 below).  Using a few simple tools (paper strip, straight pins, scissors, needle and thread) you can create a lovely simple N/S symmetry.  The steps to marking one are… well… simple.

1. Establish a N pole point.
2. Determine the circumference of the ball.
3. Establish a S pole point and equator line.
4. Space pins evenly around the equator.
5. Wrap lines from the N to S pole and back to N using the evenly spaced equator pins.
6. Wrap an equator line if needed.

1.  Establish a N pole point

This is always my favorite part of teaching a simple division.  To find the N pole on your ball you take an appropriatle coloered pin (I always use red.), stick it through the end of your paper strip (somewhere between a quarter and an eighth of an inch from the end), and then just stick it straight into your ball.  Tada!  You just found the N pole of your temari!  Don’t take this pin out of the ball now until you have all of the marking lines in place.

Put the pin in the strip a little less than 1/2 cm from the end...

then stick that pin somewhere in the ball.

2.  Determine the circumference of the ball

You’ll use the paper strip (still attached to the N pole pin) to determine the circumference of the ball.  Simply wrap the strip around the ball trying to make sure you are wrapping around the widest part and not slipping off to the side.  When the strip comes back to the N pole pin, fold it back and make a gentle crease to mark the length.

Wrap the strip around the ball and fold back at the N pole pin.

Now, repeat that step several times.  You may find that you need to adjust the crease each time but will eventually get to a happy medium.  When you are happy with the length make the crease hard so you can easily see it, then use scissors to cut off the excess length.  The distance from the N pole pin shaft to the edge you just cut is the circumference of your ball.  You don’t necessarily have to measure it with a measuring tape, just leave the strip attached to the ball for now.

Note:  If you are wrapping the strip around the ball several times (3 or 4) and the distance seems to vary too much to get to a happy medium then your ball is probably not round to begin with.  Take the N pole pin out and roll your ball on the floor or a table top to try to even out the roundness.  Then put the N pole pin in and try again.

3.  Establish a S pole point and the equator line

Finding the S pole takes a little more effort.  It will be halfway around the ball so you’ll fold your paper strip in half and cut a notch.  Note that the end of your strip is where the pin is, not the cut end past the pin, so when you fold the strip you’ll butt the end you cut in the last step up against the shaft of the N pole pin. Like this:

Fold paper strip in half, with cut end next to the shaft of the pin.

While we are at it we can establish the line for the equator so we’ll fold the strip again to make notches at the 1/4 and 3/4 marks.  Be sure all of your notches are on the same edge of the strip.  Many people will just fold the strip in half again to get the 1/4 marks, like this:

DON'T just for the strip back on itself like this...

**Depending on the thickness of the paper you are using, just folding in half again can give an inaccurate result.  I recommend using an accordian folding method so that the 1/4 marks are accurate.  Like this:

DO fold so that you are creasing only one section of the paper at a time. The halfway fold has been tucked underneath, butting up against the pin.

The paper strip will be folded like an accordion when you are done.

Now that your paper strip is notched, you will wrap it around the ball so that the cut end comes back to the N pole.  Place a pin for the S pole in the bottom notch (I use black for the S pole).  Also place pins in each of the 1/4 and 3/4 notches to establish the equator line.

Wrap the strip around the ball and place pins in the notches you cut, yellow pins are my equator pins.

You’ll repeat that step several times by rotating the paper strip to a new area and wrapping it around the ball again. Continue to place equator pins until you have enough for the marking you will be doing. (8 for a simple 8, 10 for a simple 10…) Don’t worry about spacing the equator pins evenly, just get them close. We’ll even them out in the next step.

Inserting more equator pins, don't worry about them not being evenly spaced.

The S pole pin will shift a bit the first couple of times but should settle into place after 4 or so times.  Basically you are finding the S pole by successive approximations.

This S pole pin (black) needs to be adjusted.

4.  Space pins evenly around the equator

For this step you’ll need to remove the paper strip from the ball.  DON’T pull out the N pole pin.  Use your thumb to hold it in the ball tightly while you tear the strip off through the little tab that was left at the beginning.  If you are concerned about moving the pin while you tear you can use scissors to snip through that small tab too.

Placing thumb on pin...

Push pin all the way in and hold...

Pull the strip away with the other hand, tearing through the end of the strip.

Now that your strip is free from the ball, you’ll mark it with the number of sections you need for your division.  Note that it is already marked in 4 sections from your earlier work.  Some numbers you can get just by folding: 4, 8, 16, 32.  Others you can get by folding but it is difficult to be accurate: 3, 6, 12.  And, still others you should do by measuring in cm and dividing to find the distances: 10, 20, any odd number.

If you choose to fold your strip, remember to accordion fold like we did before in step 3.  Also, remember that you should be lining up with the pin hole where the N pole pin was, not the end of the strip.

Line up with the pin hole from the N pole pin.

My accordion folded strip for a Simple 8

Whatever your method, mark the distances on your paper tape, then wrap it around your ball with the straight edge (not the notched side) up against the equator pins you placed before.  Notice that the cut end of the strip lines up with the pin hole from the N pole pin.  Shift the pins to coincide with the marks on your strip.  Some people like to use a tape measure for this part rather than their paper strip.  If you find it difficult to hold the strip in place while you are adjusting the pins then place a few pins through the strip so that it doesn’t slip.

Lining up the strip so that the equator pins can be shifted to even placement

5.  Wrap lines from the N to S pole and back to N using the evenly spaced equator pins

Almost there… we are finally ready to wrap the lines for the marking.  Figure out how many wraps you will need by dividing the number of marking lines by 2:  Simple 8 needs 4 wraps, Simple 10 needs 5 wraps, etc.  Measure off your thread either using the paper strip for length or by wrapping around the ball.  Makes sure to allow some extra for starting and stopping your thread.  Thread the needle and knot the other end.  Start the thread in the ball so that it is right next to the N pole pin.  Make sure to give the end a good tug to anchor the knot into the ball.  **I know that many experienced temari artists do not use knots (including me most of the time) but the method I am describing for the N pole works better if the thread is knotted and anchored into the ball.

Start the needle so the thread comes out on the far side of the N pole pin shaft. Note the white equator pin; that is where the first wrap will go.

**Wrap the first wrap by going to the right of the N pole pin, right of the first equator pin, left of the S pole pin and left of the equator pin on the opposite side.  I know that seem complicated but because of the way you turn the ball while you wrap doing it this way will ensure that the marking thread passes the pins in the same way all the way around.  That way you will not introduce errors because of the width of the pins or thread.

Wrapping down from the N pole pin (on the right side of it) and passing to the right of the first equator pin

You’ll be pivoting to the left around the right side of the N pole pin to get in place for the next wrap.  **Rather than just pivot around, carefully take the thread under the first wrap thread next to the N pole pin (do not catch any wrap threads as you do this) then pivot to be ready for the next wrap.

Use the eye end of the needle to tuck under the first wrap not catching any of the threads on the ball. Notice my thumb holding the thread in place that I wrapped around the ball.

Continue to place wraps, remembering to go on the right side of the equator pin as you go down towards the S pole, and on the left side of the S pole pin and the equator pin as you come up.  Always thread under the first wrap before you pivot around the N pole pin.

Taking the thread under the first wrap again, thumb holding the current wrap in place for now. (Sorry this pic is blurry.)

When you have completed all of your wraps you can remove the N pole pin and then end your thread by entering the needle either right next to or splitting the starting wrap.  Since you threaded all the wraps under the first one, and the thread is under tension the wraps will stay in place when you remove the pin.  You will have a very neat N pole intersection.

Ending the thread at the last wrap.

Voila! A very neat N pole intersection, already tacked in place.

6.  Wrap an equator line if needed

If your design calls for an equator line, thread up another length of thread in the needle and place a wrap around the equator.  I doesn’t matter much which side of the pins you go on, just be consistent.  Don’t remove the ins until you tack the intersections.

7.  Finishing up

I think the last step of any marking is to adjust lines as necessary and tack the intersections.  Smooth the lines into place, eyeballing angles for evenness and lines for straightness.  You pins show you where things should be a certain points on the ball but the threads can (and do) waver between the points sometimes.  There are some special considerations about tacking methods for an equator line on a simple division so I’ll do a separate post on that.  I’ve already done a post about methods for tacking intersections in general.

Now you have a beautiful simple division, ready for more marking lines to turn it into a combination division or ready for stitching to turn it into a beautiful temari!