I have made the core for my temari out of socks and fabric scraps for about 10 years. I always seem to have plenty of socks with holes in them lying around so I was glad to have a way to use them up rather than darning them (NOT going to happen.) or throwing them away.

Temari made from socks (and most fabric scraps) tend to be a bit more dense than temari with other items in the core. I think that is because to achieve the initial round shape I use a bit more tension on the yarn than is needed for other things. Over the years I learned to lighten up a bit on the outer wrappings to get a nice round ball that is not too hard.

Recently, I was with DH in a local homebrew shop where I noticed they had 1 pound bags of rice hulls. (They are used for filtering when you do whole grain brewing I am told.) I have always been curious, so I bought some to try.

Oh my!

It was so easy to make a beautiful round ball with these. I just put some in a plastic baggie (old fashioned kind, not a zip lock) and started wrapping. The finished ball was a bit squishier than my usual but not in a bad way. And, it rolled out into a nice round shape really easily.

Not only was it easy for me with all my experience, I recently taught a beginning class where I had the ladies wrap their first ball with rice hulls, yarn and thread. They all turned out wonderful balls for their very first ones!

So, I have to say that I am a rice hull convert. It helps immensely that I have an easy local source for them. I still don’t think I would go through the trouble of ordering a big supply via mail order yet. I also still think that recycling objects like socks is a great alternative and would reccomend it to someone who doesn’t have access to rice hulls easily. But for now, with a nice local source I would be a fool to use anything else.

I have two more thimbles to share and then I am off the thimble binge for a bit and back to temari.

Bicolored scales stitched with Orizuru No 9 thread

Bicolored scales stitched with Vikki Clayton Premium silk floss

These were both stitched to share in Chloe Patricia’s Share Your Thimbles Flick’r group. She restricted the design to bicolored scales. I am glad she did. I stuck with it and stitched several of them. I feel like I have learned a tremendous amount and  I’m excited to continue to explore thimbles in general. I think you could say that I am hooked.

Here’s a list of the skills I identified that I have had to work on to try to do this design well:

1. Make a firm base with a stable edge and adequate padding.
2. Divide the base into even segments for the design.
3. Start and stop your threads inconspicuously.
4. Make your stitches consistently so that the edge is even.
5. Space the stitches evenly so that they fill in the side of the thimble completely and also create a smooth satiny edge.
6. Maintain a straight line where the threads cross in the middle of the thimble.

I think I can safely say that I improved on all of the above while I worked on these thimbles. I got more efficient in making my bases by doing them more often. Chloe Patricia’s tips on dividing really helped my accuracy alot.

I am getting better at spacing my stitches. Better divisions helps with this, duh! I am finding that I need to pack the stitches in much tighter than I do with temari stitching. It is just one more way that thimbles are different from temari. I find it amazing how many stitches I can pack into such a small space. It makes a big difference in the way my edge looks and in the fill that I get for the thimble in general.

I have really only started to focus more on the line formed where the threads cross. Also, now that I am getting the other skills dialed in, my starts and stops seem much more obvious to me.  It just gives me more to improve upon!

I’ll come back to these again in a bit, but for now I need to get back to temari.  I have a few projects in the works that I really need to get going on. So, if you come here for temari, rest assured that there are new ones coming soon!

The thimbles I am working on right now are a design called bi-colored scales.  It is described as a beginner design but it is pretty challenging to execute well.  The geometry and stitching path is easy but the simple large shapes tend to show off your mistakes pretty well. Mine just don’t look as neat as the examples I have to look at.

my first bi-colored scales

my second bi-colored scales

It reminds me of the squares design in temari.  It is also considered a beginning design, worked on a C4 marking with just a basic solid square.  But, it takes some skill to get the squares to maintain a nice shape and fill in evenly.

a squares design temari (not my first!)

This is the one I used for JTA

So, are these beginning designs because they have simple geometry and stitch placement?  Or are they beginning designs because in order to do them well you have to practice a bunch?

I know that in temari, in order to do the squares really well you have to be good at:

• placing your marking lines accurately and securely,
• stitching without distorting the lines,
• spacing stitches so that corners don’t get bunched up,
• adjusting the spacing as the shape gets larger,
• and progressing evenly towards a common point.

Whew!  That is quite a list for a beginner.  Many of those skills end up being more intuitive things that you discover as you stitch and try to make your design look as good as the example. I know that the first squares I did looked nowhere near as neat and smooth as the example I was working from.

In my early temari days I moved on from the squares design onto more complicated things pretty quickly because I could make the complicated ones look better than I could make the squares look.  Then, when I started my Japanese Temari Association certification process I had to revisit the squares design.  As a more experienced stitcher I could now appreciate a little better what went in to stitching that design really well.

So, as I work on this ‘beginner’ thimble design I wonder what I am teaching myself that I won’t appreciate until I am more experienced. What tricks and techniques do I need to polish so that my bi-colored scales will look as good as the ones I see from thimble makers more experienced than me?

Will I have the persistence to stick with it until I get it?  Or will I move on like I did with temari and revisit the design later? My bet is that I will stick with it for a bit, but won’t quite be able to match the ‘good’ ones that I see until I have a lot more thimble stitching under my belt.

I’m still working on 42 center thoughts but this post was sitting there just waiting for the pictures so I did them when I got started marking balls this weekend.  Sorry this post is so long. I wanted to be sure to have enough pictures for those who are new to temari to see the details.

It all starts here: pins, marking thread, paper strip, scissors, mari, needles

All temari markings start with a simple division.  So it would make sense to be able to do one really well.  If you are already an experienced temari maker you might find that there are still a few tricks to getting a really nice simple division.  (If I leave off one of your favorites, please tell me in the comments.)  Since simples are the starting place for combination divisions you’ll find that taking your time in this step can really pay off later.  I’ve marked the tips that are not usually included in other Simple Division instructions with a ** so if you are experienced with Simple Divisions you can just check those parts out (Step 3 and 4 below).  Using a few simple tools (paper strip, straight pins, scissors, needle and thread) you can create a lovely simple N/S symmetry.  The steps to marking one are… well… simple.

1. Establish a N pole point.
2. Determine the circumference of the ball.
3. Establish a S pole point and equator line.
4. Space pins evenly around the equator.
5. Wrap lines from the N to S pole and back to N using the evenly spaced equator pins.
6. Wrap an equator line if needed.

1.  Establish a N pole point

This is always my favorite part of teaching a simple division.  To find the N pole on your ball you take an appropriatle coloered pin (I always use red.), stick it through the end of your paper strip (somewhere between a quarter and an eighth of an inch from the end), and then just stick it straight into your ball.  Tada!  You just found the N pole of your temari!  Don’t take this pin out of the ball now until you have all of the marking lines in place.

Put the pin in the strip a little less than 1/2 cm from the end...

then stick that pin somewhere in the ball.

2.  Determine the circumference of the ball

You’ll use the paper strip (still attached to the N pole pin) to determine the circumference of the ball.  Simply wrap the strip around the ball trying to make sure you are wrapping around the widest part and not slipping off to the side.  When the strip comes back to the N pole pin, fold it back and make a gentle crease to mark the length.

Wrap the strip around the ball and fold back at the N pole pin.

Now, repeat that step several times.  You may find that you need to adjust the crease each time but will eventually get to a happy medium.  When you are happy with the length make the crease hard so you can easily see it, then use scissors to cut off the excess length.  The distance from the N pole pin shaft to the edge you just cut is the circumference of your ball.  You don’t necessarily have to measure it with a measuring tape, just leave the strip attached to the ball for now.

Note:  If you are wrapping the strip around the ball several times (3 or 4) and the distance seems to vary too much to get to a happy medium then your ball is probably not round to begin with.  Take the N pole pin out and roll your ball on the floor or a table top to try to even out the roundness.  Then put the N pole pin in and try again.

3.  Establish a S pole point and the equator line

Finding the S pole takes a little more effort.  It will be halfway around the ball so you’ll fold your paper strip in half and cut a notch.  Note that the end of your strip is where the pin is, not the cut end past the pin, so when you fold the strip you’ll butt the end you cut in the last step up against the shaft of the N pole pin. Like this:

Fold paper strip in half, with cut end next to the shaft of the pin.

While we are at it we can establish the line for the equator so we’ll fold the strip again to make notches at the 1/4 and 3/4 marks.  Be sure all of your notches are on the same edge of the strip.  Many people will just fold the strip in half again to get the 1/4 marks, like this:

DON'T just for the strip back on itself like this...

**Depending on the thickness of the paper you are using, just folding in half again can give an inaccurate result.  I recommend using an accordian folding method so that the 1/4 marks are accurate.  Like this:

DO fold so that you are creasing only one section of the paper at a time. The halfway fold has been tucked underneath, butting up against the pin.

The paper strip will be folded like an accordion when you are done.

Now that your paper strip is notched, you will wrap it around the ball so that the cut end comes back to the N pole.  Place a pin for the S pole in the bottom notch (I use black for the S pole).  Also place pins in each of the 1/4 and 3/4 notches to establish the equator line.

Wrap the strip around the ball and place pins in the notches you cut, yellow pins are my equator pins.

You’ll repeat that step several times by rotating the paper strip to a new area and wrapping it around the ball again. Continue to place equator pins until you have enough for the marking you will be doing. (8 for a simple 8, 10 for a simple 10…) Don’t worry about spacing the equator pins evenly, just get them close. We’ll even them out in the next step.

Inserting more equator pins, don't worry about them not being evenly spaced.

The S pole pin will shift a bit the first couple of times but should settle into place after 4 or so times.  Basically you are finding the S pole by successive approximations.

This S pole pin (black) needs to be adjusted.

4.  Space pins evenly around the equator

For this step you’ll need to remove the paper strip from the ball.  DON’T pull out the N pole pin.  Use your thumb to hold it in the ball tightly while you tear the strip off through the little tab that was left at the beginning.  If you are concerned about moving the pin while you tear you can use scissors to snip through that small tab too.

Placing thumb on pin...

Push pin all the way in and hold...

Pull the strip away with the other hand, tearing through the end of the strip.

Now that your strip is free from the ball, you’ll mark it with the number of sections you need for your division.  Note that it is already marked in 4 sections from your earlier work.  Some numbers you can get just by folding: 4, 8, 16, 32.  Others you can get by folding but it is difficult to be accurate: 3, 6, 12.  And, still others you should do by measuring in cm and dividing to find the distances: 10, 20, any odd number.

If you choose to fold your strip, remember to accordion fold like we did before in step 3.  Also, remember that you should be lining up with the pin hole where the N pole pin was, not the end of the strip.

Line up with the pin hole from the N pole pin.

My accordion folded strip for a Simple 8

Whatever your method, mark the distances on your paper tape, then wrap it around your ball with the straight edge (not the notched side) up against the equator pins you placed before.  Notice that the cut end of the strip lines up with the pin hole from the N pole pin.  Shift the pins to coincide with the marks on your strip.  Some people like to use a tape measure for this part rather than their paper strip.  If you find it difficult to hold the strip in place while you are adjusting the pins then place a few pins through the strip so that it doesn’t slip.

Lining up the strip so that the equator pins can be shifted to even placement

5.  Wrap lines from the N to S pole and back to N using the evenly spaced equator pins

Almost there… we are finally ready to wrap the lines for the marking.  Figure out how many wraps you will need by dividing the number of marking lines by 2:  Simple 8 needs 4 wraps, Simple 10 needs 5 wraps, etc.  Measure off your thread either using the paper strip for length or by wrapping around the ball.  Makes sure to allow some extra for starting and stopping your thread.  Thread the needle and knot the other end.  Start the thread in the ball so that it is right next to the N pole pin.  Make sure to give the end a good tug to anchor the knot into the ball.  **I know that many experienced temari artists do not use knots (including me most of the time) but the method I am describing for the N pole works better if the thread is knotted and anchored into the ball.

Start the needle so the thread comes out on the far side of the N pole pin shaft. Note the white equator pin; that is where the first wrap will go.

**Wrap the first wrap by going to the right of the N pole pin, right of the first equator pin, left of the S pole pin and left of the equator pin on the opposite side.  I know that seem complicated but because of the way you turn the ball while you wrap doing it this way will ensure that the marking thread passes the pins in the same way all the way around.  That way you will not introduce errors because of the width of the pins or thread.

Wrapping down from the N pole pin (on the right side of it) and passing to the right of the first equator pin

You’ll be pivoting to the left around the right side of the N pole pin to get in place for the next wrap.  **Rather than just pivot around, carefully take the thread under the first wrap thread next to the N pole pin (do not catch any wrap threads as you do this) then pivot to be ready for the next wrap.

Use the eye end of the needle to tuck under the first wrap not catching any of the threads on the ball. Notice my thumb holding the thread in place that I wrapped around the ball.

Continue to place wraps, remembering to go on the right side of the equator pin as you go down towards the S pole, and on the left side of the S pole pin and the equator pin as you come up.  Always thread under the first wrap before you pivot around the N pole pin.

Taking the thread under the first wrap again, thumb holding the current wrap in place for now. (Sorry this pic is blurry.)

When you have completed all of your wraps you can remove the N pole pin and then end your thread by entering the needle either right next to or splitting the starting wrap.  Since you threaded all the wraps under the first one, and the thread is under tension the wraps will stay in place when you remove the pin.  You will have a very neat N pole intersection.

Ending the thread at the last wrap.

Voila! A very neat N pole intersection, already tacked in place.

6.  Wrap an equator line if needed

If your design calls for an equator line, thread up another length of thread in the needle and place a wrap around the equator.  I doesn’t matter much which side of the pins you go on, just be consistent.  Don’t remove the ins until you tack the intersections.

7.  Finishing up

I think the last step of any marking is to adjust lines as necessary and tack the intersections.  Smooth the lines into place, eyeballing angles for evenness and lines for straightness.  You pins show you where things should be a certain points on the ball but the threads can (and do) waver between the points sometimes.  There are some special considerations about tacking methods for an equator line on a simple division so I’ll do a separate post on that.  I’ve already done a post about methods for tacking intersections in general.

Now you have a beautiful simple division, ready for more marking lines to turn it into a combination division or ready for stitching to turn it into a beautiful temari!

Since I am thinking so much about preparing thimbles for stitching, and I am doing other sorts of stitching than temari right now, I am thinking about how these different things compare.

Somehow prepping the base for the thimble is much more part of the specific project than prepping the base for a temari.  I think that is because the fabric design choice must come right at the beginning of thimble prep, whereas the wrap color choice is the last thing to happen on temari prep.

I routinely sit down and wrap 15 to 20 temari bases at a time in a variety of sizes, just leaving off the thread wrap.  Then when I pick a design I want to do I go grab the right size from the bin, pull design threads and then pick the wrap color.  I’m ready to go with a minimum of fuss since most of the work to prepare the base for stitching has been done before I even thought about the specific project.

On the other hand, for thimbles I need to know the color of the fabric for the ring at the very beginning of the project in order to create the base.  Essentially that means at a minimum I have to already have chosen the design threads.  In order to choose the right number of design threads I need to have chosen the design.  And to some extent, I need to already have an idea of what size I am making since that impacts the thread choice.  So, choosing the fabric is an integral part of the thimble design making the prep work much more a part of the design than it is for temari.  (Yes, I know that if I just did a simple black for every thimble I wouldn’t have the dilemma, but I have lots of nice quilting scraps so I might as well use them.)

I don’t think that is a bad thing, but it means that shifting from temari stitching to thimble stitching requires a shift in my point of view about starting the project.  Rather than picking fibers and essentially getting right to the stitching, I pick the fibers and then must do all of the prep work before I get to the stitching.  I suppose temari would be like that if I didn’t prewrap my blanks.

Come to think of it… prepping thimbles is more like prepping for cross stitch than prepping for temari.  For cross stitch I also need to have the project pretty well planned out before I prep the fabric for stitching.  I need to plan the function if it will make a difference in the fabric thread count, then pull the threads so that I can compare to fabric colors and choose the right one.  Adjust the size requirements of the pattern if I have chosen a fabric with a different thread count than the pattern.  Then I can cut the fabric, straighten/serge the ends, and find the starting place for the stitching. Depending on the type of project, I also have to find stretcher bars or my stitching frame and get the fabric attached.

So, the process that I use for temari is somewhat unique in my little world of stitching.  If I think about it, I tend to drag my feet on getting a temari project started too if I don’t have any blanks ready to choose from.  It would seem that one source of my reluctance to get going on projects is the delay between choosing the threads and actually threading the needle to stitch.  Somehow the motivation I gain from the lovely colors and fibers gets lost in the mundane tasks of preparing the stitching surface.  Aha!  A personal insight!

Maybe now that I am a little more aware of that I can be better at not dragging my feet in getting things started.

Note:  I wrote this 2 days ago and am just now getting around to posting it.  But in the meantime I got a new thimble started!  Yea!  Seems that discovering what my difficulties (excuses) were helped me get past them.  A new thimble should be posted this week!